Ama Dablam Expedition

$6000 $4800 / Person

Destination

Mount Ama Dablam

Trip Type

Expedition

Duration

30 Days

Trip Grade

High

Start At

Kathmandu

End At

Kathmandu

Altitude

6,812 meters

Transport

Flight

Accomodation

Hotel/ Lodges/ Tented camps

Itinerary

Day 1 Arrival in Kathmandu.

The personnel of Neal Trek Adventure will extend a cordial welcome to you upon your arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport. He will take you to the hotels of your choice and provide you with information on the Ama Dablam Expedition. Following the briefing, you are free to spend the night at the hotel and have any kind of evening you like.

Day 2 Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.

 

Today we will be doing some pre-briefing, and paperwork before sightseeing. So, after breakfast,  we have a pre-trip meeting at your hotel in Kathmandu and introduce your trek guide. During this meeting, you can clear all your doubts related to the trek. We will also give you a cap and our journey luggage bag. Please bring your passport, three copies of passport-size pictures, and a legible copy of your travel insurance policy to the meeting. Please pay any outstanding balance at this meeting and sign the legally binding trip form and the non-liability declaration.

We start our day of sightseeing right after the meeting. A private vehicle and a professional tour guide are provided. During our visit to Boudhanath Stupa, one of Asia’s largest Buddhist shrines, we get to see Buddhist monks praying in the monasteries which surround the stupa. Following Boudhnath Stupa, we go on to Pashupatinath, the most well-known Hindu temple in the nation, which is situated along the banks of the famous Bagmati River. Here, we witness sadhus meditating, pilgrims bathing, and periodic cremation pyres burning on the ghats.

Then we proceed to Bhaktapur Durbar Square, a collection of the pagoda- and shikhara-style temples centered around a brick and wood palace with fifty-five windows. The main attractions of Bhaktapur Durbar Square are The Lion Gate, the Golden Gate, the Palace with Fifty-Five Windows, the Art Galleries, and the Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla. Our remaining time in Kathmandu is free for additional exploration and last-minute shopping in the Thamel district close to your hotel. Stay overnight at Hotel.

Day 3 Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Phakding.

Early in the morning, our guide will come get you from your accommodation and transport you to the domestic terminal of the Kathmandu airport. After that, you board an aircraft from Kathmandu to Lukla. For the full forty minutes, you may enjoy breath-taking vistas of the Himalayas. Your porter is waiting for you when you get to Tenzing-Hilary Airport. He’ll carry your baggage. After that, you start your journey. You’re going on a short, easy walk today—three hours. The ceremonial gatehouse, or Kani, is the first landmark along the path. Before dropping sharply, it runs level above the Kyangma hamlet, which is home to a sizable gompa (monastery) and school.

Next, you reach the settlement of Cheplung. The route gives views of the Dudh Koshi River and travels through a communal forest as it descends. To get to Ghat, cross the suspension bridge and then make a quick climb around the ridge. The route exits Ghat past a school and a complex of mani walls, prayer wheels, and chortens. The path then climbs to the little village of Chhuthawa. After a little climb from Chhuthawa, you will arrive in Phakding. and spend the night at teahouses or lodges.

Day 4 Phakding to Namche Bazaar.

Following a delightful morning, the trek crosses the Dudh Kosi River via bridges and passes through several interesting settlements, such as Toc-Toc, Bhenkar, and Monjo, before reaching the Sagarmatha National Park entry gate. You will be walking for around six hours today. From here, spend a few hours strolling along the riverbank before making a sharp climb uphill to Namche Bazaar, which has excellent eateries, pubs, cybercafés, post offices, and banks. You may take in the scenery and spend the day in lodges on the remaining days.

Day 5 Acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar

First day of a rest day between the two “acclimatisation” days is today. On your day off, we may travel to Khunde, hike to Thame for the day, or just relax and have a leisurely stroll in Namche Bazaar. It’s better to move about and keep active than to sit around all day. The centre of the Everest (Khumbu) area is Namche Bazaar, which has government buildings, ATMs, Internet cafés, stores, restaurants, a bakery, and a bustling market every Friday and Saturday. You may thus make use of our rest day by exploring the Namche market or going on a few hundred feet of steep hiking during the day.

Additionally, your guides will take you to the Tourist Visitor Centre of Sagarmatha National Park, where we could see a range of products. Our guides take us to the Tourist Visitor Centre near the Sagarmatha National Park headquarters, where we can explore the different plant and animal species found in the Everest region and see a range of artefacts related to the first Everest climbers. We can also learn about Sherpa culture. Enjoy dinner in the evening and spend the night at the lodges.

Day 6 Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche

With spectacular vistas of the mountains, the walk continues today amid the rushing glacier rivers of the Dudh Kosi. By the time we reach Tengboche, we will have ascended to 3,860 metres above sea level. After arriving here, we’ll go to the Tengboche monastery, where you can see a 20-foot-tall Buddha sculpture, breathtaking wall hangings, and the musical instruments and robes used by the lamas. The party will be taken to see a prayer ritual in the morning or the evening, depending on the nature of today’s trekking. The remainder of the day is yours to spend anyway you like. Spend the night at teahouses or lodges.

Day 7 Trek to Pangboche

We begin our day with breakfast and morning rituals, followed by a two-hour excursion. Today’s walk to Upper Pangboche at 4000 meters is uncomplicated and needs only a 140-meter elevation from Tengboche. Sometimes, the rapid ascent is chosen instead of staying an additional night in Tengboche for acclimatization. The trek descends to Deboche at the start and then climbs through a deep forest with limited views. The route traverses a cliff wall with several vistas, including Ama Dablam to the south, after passing the bridge. From this point on, the trail continues with a few brief, steep stretches. We climbed to Upper Pangboche, where we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks, after passing via Lower Pangboche. Spend the night at a teahouse or a lodge.

Day 8 Trek to Ama Dablam base camp.

We will prepare for the Ama Dablam base cam today after breakfast, which should take five to six hours. Following our journey, we retrace our steps to the Dudh Kosi Bridge at Pangboche, cross it, and ascend the opposite side to reach the base camp via the path and ridgeline. The base camp is located in a stunning location and offers views of much of the journey. At around 4600m, it provides a tranquil respite from the challenges of the ascent. When our porters go with their loads, the only people left are our guides and kitchen staff for the next three weeks. Stay the night in a camper trailer.

Day 9 Base Camp preparation; rest day.

There’s more acclimatisation to come today. To acclimatise to the altitude, you will begin your day by ascending to the Yak Camp. For your body to adjust to the rising altitude, you need to climb for a short while. The initial section offers amazing views of the Himalayas as it follows a moraine’s crest.

Then you merge southwestward with the ridge. The guides will leave some of the heavier equipment behind that is required. Once that’s done, head back to base camp for a dinner to warm up. Base Camp overnight accommodations in a tent.

Day 10 10 - 26 The climbing period

Because the expedition leader and participants will choose what has to be accomplished each day, there is no set daily plan for the climbing portion. Guides will employ a flexible strategy based on the demands of climbers and their individual experience.

The crew often stays a few days in base camp to organise supplies, practice knotting, and acclimatise before climbing beyond it. It is standard practice to “tag,” or stay at Camp 1 (5700m), for at least one night as part of an acclimatisation plan before returning to base camp, recovering, and preparing for a summit attempt.

From the base camp, we follow an old grassy moraine ridge roughly eastward to a large saddle at 5150 metres where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle, we easily ascend north until the terrain begins to slope down, marking the start of a vast boulder field. We may establish an advanced base camp 5400 metres below the boulder field.

The trail heads north along the base of the boulder field and then climbs via cairns to the toe of the south-west ridge. Near the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and a small gully is ascended to give access to the ridge itself in a somewhat exposed spot. On the eastern side of the ridge, easy scrambling provides quick access to Camp 1.

Tents are arranged on four or five platforms. We follow the contour around Camp 1’s (or a possible replacement location for Camp 1) snowy basin until we are below two fingers of rock. Keeping to the east side of the ridge, one ascends through a short pitch of “difficult” standard that goes straight up to the crest.

The ridge contains several tight sections and steep easterly bends until the second traverse, which leads to two pitches that satisfy the “extremely severe” classification. The trail follows the summit of the mountain for a little while before making us take an uncomfortably steep step to go on the west side of the hill.

This 15-meter pitch located just below Camp 2 is among the toughest pitches on the HVS (5.8) class climb. A minor hill now leads to Camp 2. (5900m). There is not much tent space (three or four tent platforms) and Camp 2 is rather exposed.

It’s sometimes used as a site to dump equipment when expeditions decide to go all the way from Camp 1 to Camp 3. The ascent departs Camp 2 by circling around a red granite bluff on the east, then follows the snow ridge directly to a strenuous east traverse. This results in a ravine that separates the Grey Tower from the lower rock buttress.

We climb the gully until we reach a traverse trail on the west side of the ridge that is very exposed. To reach the start of Mushroom Ridge, we have to ascend a small snow slope. Usually, the next stage involves negotiating some difficult snow sections to Camp 3 (6300m). The path climbs the snow and ice slope immediately above Camp 3 to Dablam’s right side.

We continue westward, skirting Dablam on the right, to get access to a tiny snowfield beneath the Bergschrund. The journey continues straight up to the ice top above after navigating the Bergschrund. This is followed by a magnificent rise to the top. Spend the night in a tent (Excellent camping tents will be provided by each camp).

Day 27 Trek back to Namche Bazaar.

We start our six-hour journey down to 3441-meter-high Namche Bazaar. With luck, we should be at Namche in time for the market. Good food is constantly available, including delectable chocolate cake with icing, soft yak steaks, and creamy coffee! At this market, the lowland porters bringing supplies meet the highland Sherpa and Tibetan people, who have come from far away over high passes to exchange products and food for their homes and communities. Honour and enjoy your adventure. Spend the night at the guesthouse.

Day 28 Trek back to Lukla.

After six hours of trekking, we return to Lukla (3404m), the starting point of the expedition. We’ll pause for a moment to celebrate each participant’s unique achievements as well as the overall trip. You will have plenty of time to explore the city on foot. Spend the night at the guesthouse.

Day 29 Return flight to Kathmandu.

We take an early morning flight to Kathmandu following a strenuous mountain hike. Once in Kathmandu, we have time to relax or go shopping for mementoes. We have the chance to explore any more of Kathmandu today. Our tour guides can help you with shopping for souvenirs and sightseeing. A goodbye dinner will be served in honour of the visitors in the evening. Spend the night in a hotel.

Day 30 Departure day

Today marks the conclusion of your journey across Nepal! All you have to do is sort your photos and send each other emails while you’re on the road. You will be driven to the airport by an RT representative three hours before your scheduled departure. While travelling back home, you’ll have plenty of time to organise your upcoming vacation to Nepal.

Trip Hilights

  • Training for expedition climbing in base camp

  • Extra oxygen for guides and climbers

  • Assistance for one climber: one Sherpa guide

  • The world's most technical climbing expedition

  • The hassle-free journey included climbing licenses.

  • Expedition to the Ama Dablam's summit with full support

  • Whilst traveling, full board meals include tea, coffee, and water.

  • climb to Mt. Amadablam's summit (6812m)

  • Awe-inspiring views of the world's most prominent mountain ranges, including Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), Mt. Lhotse (8516m), Mt. Makalu (8481m), and Mt. Everest (8848m).

Trip Overview

Ama Dablam Expedition

Hi there! Are you familiar with Ama Dablam? It resembles the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas” located in the Himalayan range’s eastern region. The shorter summit is situated at 6,170 metres, or 20,243 feet, while the main peak reaches a height of 6,812 metres, or about 22,349 feet.
Really nice, huh?

Ama Dablam is also known as “Mother’s Necklace” because to its peculiar form. Imagine lengthy ridges that resemble an ama (mother) tending to her infant, and a hanging glacier. How intriguing is that? And here’s an interesting fact: in order to honour the gods, Sherpa ladies wear a unique double pendant known as the Ama Dablam.

Let’s now discuss taking on Ama Dablam.It’s not an easy chore, I promise! Climbing over frozen patches and steep rocks might be difficult. Imagine traversing the south-west ridge, passing past three camps. Directly under the hanging glacier (Dablam) is Camp III. Everything goes well until you get to camp 1. From camp 1 to camp 2, the route gets a little more difficult due to the rough sides on the narrow granite ridge. And what do you know? Between Camps 2 and 3, the going gets considerably harder. Those glacier falls may be rather terrifying as well! On the other hand, you know, “Take a chance when it comes,” right?

When climbing peaks like Ama Dablam, altitude sickness is a regular problem to deal with. It is crucial to approach Base Camp cautiously and climb up gradually for this reason. Before undertaking this expedition, climbers need also become used to being at high elevations. Even though there are probably higher mountains out there, this one truly tests your mettle. Additionally, be prepared for erratic weather on those exposed, sheer cliffs.

Situated in the Khumbu area of Nepal, close to both Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse, Ama Dablam gives gorgeous vistas of these magnificent mountains as you journey towards its top, which yields even more amazing sights! Before beginning your climb, don’t forget to visit Tyangboche Monastery for some tranquilly; before leaving, guides always stop here to offer prayers. I hope you had fun discovering this amazing peak!

Ama Dablam Route

In Kathmandu, your trip starts. Next, fly to Lukla (2840 metres) and climb to the quaint villages of Namche Bazaar (3440 metres) and Phakding (2610 metres) following that. Allow a day for your body to adjust to the higher altitude. Next, we travel to the base camp of Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600 metres) at Tyangboche (3860 metres), where our climbing experience starts.

We’ll be staying here to polish our abilities, successfully complete a number of high-altitude camps, and gain strength to fend off the dangers of altitude sickness. Climbers need around 15 days to reach Ama Dablam’s (6,812-meter) peak. But as part of the strategy, delays in climbing may occur because of bad weather or unforeseen circumstances. The days that remain will be spent perfecting your climbing techniques to guarantee a secure and fruitful ascent.

Following our descent from the summit, we will return to Namche Bazaar (3441 metres) and then Lukla, from where we will celebrate our accomplishment with a picturesque flight down to Kathmandu.

Alternative Ama Dablam Climbing Route

Ama Dablam 1

There are eight different ways to reach the peak of Ama Dablam using climbing routes. However, the South-west Ridge Route is mostly used by guides who are taking climbers to the summit. Most mountaineers with experience only take the remaining routes.

But there are a several routes to get to the summit of Ama Dablam, such as:

  1. After the South-west Ridge Route, the Lower Route was the second route to be successfully climbed in April 1979.
  2. Ever since its first ascent in October 1979, the North Ridge Route has gained popularity as an alternative to the South-West Ridge Route.
  3. The East Ridge route is more difficult and has just recently been successfully ascended after 1983.
  4. The first climb of Ama Dablam took place in the winter of 1985 by the steepest route, which was the north-east route.
  5. The western face is home to the Ariake-Sakashita Route.
  6. In 1996, Vanja Furlan and Toma Humar became the first individuals to scale the Stane Belakrauf Memorial
  7. Route on the north-west face.
  8. Ridge Road in the Northwestern Region. It only made it to the top once, in 2001.

Strategy For The Ama Dablam Expedition:

Strategy 1: Advanced Base Camp at 4750 meters to Camp I at 5700 meters

Base camp offers breathtaking views of the Ama Dablam mountain towering above, a stream winding through verdant meadows, and the valley of Mount Taweche opening up below. From this point on, the trail continues eastward across grassy moraine ridges and gravel that is often frozen, arriving at a huge plateau at 5150 metres, from where the Mingbo La pass can be viewed. From the plateau, the route turns north and climbs quickly to a large boulder field. At 5300 metres, immediately below the bolder field, lies our Advanced Base Camp.

Towards the end of the boulder field, slabs pass through deep fissures; to reach the proper ridge, one must ascend with secured ropes. Camp I may be easily accessed around 5700m with an easy ascent along the east side of the ridge. Camp I contains four or five tent platforms.

Strategy 2: Camp I (5700 metres ) to Camp II( 5900 metres)

The path departs Camp I up an exposed rocky slope studded with towering rock fingers. There are many of cracks to navigate on slabs, and the ridge may be rather narrow at points.

Follow easy terrain to the start of an east-face traverse that goes to the foot of Yellow Tower. To reach Camp II, which is situated at 5900 metres, a steep 15-meter slope must be ascended using fixed ropes. This is the toughest pitch on the climb. There is very little room for tents, and Camp II is rather open.

Strategy 3: Camp II (5900 meters) to Camp III (6300 meters)

With snow and ice-covered rock, the path becomes more “mixed” after Camp II. The route skirts a bulge of red rocks between the Grey Tower and the lower rock wall, crossing a canyon before descending to follow a snowy ridge. The track must cross several steep snowy stretches of this bottomless snowy valley before arriving to the popular Mushroom Mountain 6300m, a sheltered spot on the east side of the mountain.

Strategy 4: Ama Dablam on Summit Day

The biggest challenges on Summit Day are the altitude and the wintry conditions. The trail climbs over on snow and ice to the eastern flank of Ama Dablam. The ascent proceeds straight up snow slopes to the visible ice top after crossing the hanging glacier, or Dablam, to a little snowfield. The ice fields rise to a precariously exposed point where they meet a 40–60 degree snow rib, and then there’s the breathtaking top. Magnificent vistas of Everest, Nuptse, Baruntse, Pumori, Lhotse Shar, Makalu, and Cho Oyu may be seen from the top.

2 Reviews

Belly Wave

14 MAY, 2023 . 4:00 Pm

5.0

Absolutely delighted with the service provided by Roiels Travel! From start to finish, they exceeded expectations and made our vacation unforgettable.

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Nicolas Shai

25 APR, 2023. 12:00 Pm

5.0

During our trip, everything ran smoothly thanks to Roiels Travel's attention to detail. They ensured our comfort and safety throughout the journey.

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